PAD artwork and design honest is again in Paris April 5-10, for the primary time for the reason that covid pandemic compelled the world’s first up to date design salon on-line. Modern artwork and vintage twentieth century furnishings shares area with collectible design and jewellery within the Jardins des Tuileries this week, and a bunch of impartial jewellery designers are garnering curiosity amongst the honest’s design-led viewers.
With round 70 exhibitors, PAD is likely one of the few worldwide design gala’s to incorporate jewellery alongside different ornamental arts, erasing the widespread notion that artwork with a perform is of lesser significance than that with out. Absent from the present this yr as a consequence of new post-Brexit import-export laws, are UK-based exhibitors who now desire to indicate in London within the Fall, however the primarily Europe-based exhibitor checklist consists of galleries and particular person designers like Walid Akkad, returning with a standalone exhibit, and US-represented Indian jewellery artist Neha Dani, exhibiting her beautiful assortment in Paris for the primary time. 5 Octobre can also be again, together with established Paris galleries like Karry Berreby and Negropontes, and the Beautiful Watch, a Monaco and France-based classic luxurious watch specialist.
Second Pétale, the Paris-based on-line jewellery gallery run by Arina Pouzoullic, is on the present for the primary time, representing up to date designers together with Marie Mas and MAD by Alex Dumas. Pouzoullic, who masterminded the Jewelry Talents of Tomorrow curation with Christie’s, sees the honest as a possibility for dialog with a multi-generational viewers and is worked up to be exhibiting: “to premiere at PAD only after three years in the business is an important endorsement; the fair is a great stage from which to communicate my passion to international audiences and an important link between the Collector and the Art.”
“People come to marvel at the unique, authentic, new and different. I believe that collectors don’t just collect the object, but also the story of that object: PAD provides the arena and the context to tell that story to the public,” says Pouzoullic, whose stand was one of many busiest on the opening night time. “Moreover, within the context of grave world events, opportunities to connect with beauty have become rare. They are very important; I believe art can be a cultural lifebuoy.”
Read on for seven items I finished for, at PAD Paris.
BARE by Dries Criel
The precision of Dries Criel’s work comes from years of rigorous coaching as a dancer, nourished by his curiosity in structure and artwork to create strikingly trendy genderless jewellery handcrafted in Antwerp, Belgium. Inspired by Egyptology, the peaks and pleats of the Pyramid ring are accented with diamonds to create a pointy assertion piece that feels mild on the physique.
Represented by Second Petale
The sculptural work of Hermien Cassiers is the results of this math fiend’s exact mathematical formulation, which dictate the angles and form of every chain hyperlink in her woven gold jewellery, making each gentle and versatile, virtually spongey to the contact. Part of the Formula X assortment, solely for Carpenter Workshop Gallery, the stones on this ruby ring are woven into the gold wire, held in place by an intricate system of tiny hyperlinks.
Represented by Carpenters Workshop Gallery
Marie Cabirou has perfected her artistry round a kinetic jewellery idea that marries distinctive craftsmanship with an exploration of motion that has been a design obsession since she began her model in 2015. The topazes, amethysts and quartz on the Swinging Earrings are set again to again as fully cell teardrops, whereas twin foldable ear posts make them reversible, so the teardrops can even fall to indicate the contrasting underside. Freedom in jewellery type.
Represented by Second Petale
Neha Dani’s exquisitely crafted jewels are so meticulously thought-out, that every piece takes a number of months – typically years – to supply. The Indian-born jewellery designer’s work is sculptural and colourful; her most up-to-date items type the La Pluma assortment, designed and produced in the course of the coronavirus pandemic, are impressed by birds and the lack of freedom throughout lockdown, just like the Loriini bracelet, above. “I would watch birds soaring high,” says the designer, “and I began to think about aspirations and freedom and what the loss of that freedom means.” A notice of post-pandemic positivity on the first face-to-face PAD Fair since 2019, executed to breathtaking impact.
MAD by Alex Dumas
After 5 years on the bench for one of many world’s most illustrious jewellery artists, Alix Dumas has solely been making her wearable artwork beneath her personal identify since 2020, however the pandemic hasn’t been a barrier to success. She not often sketches, preferring as an alternative to sculpt straight within the supplies themselves, and her meticulously crafted jewels have already been on present at Christie’s and received her a number of awards. The Hokusai Wave ring captures the essence of the unique art work in sleek curves of sapphires and diamonds set right into a latticework of silver that Dumas spent many hours hand-sawing. “It would be near-impossible to achieve such delicate negative space using wax casting,” she informed me.
Represented by Second Petale
In Sophie Pfeffer’s jewels, the main target is firmly on the stones, organized in gentle shade mixtures that invite straightforward class. In her signature multi-stone drop earrings minimize and polished gems are fastidiously pierced for mounting, somewhat than set into metallic, holding the main target firmly on the stones themselves. She favours extra uncommon gems, just like the merely mounted ring of azurite malachite cabochon surrounded by diamonds, above: “it looks like a landscape, or a painting,” she stated.
The first girl to qualify as a Master Jeweler in Spain, Luz Camino’s creations are infused with the sunshine and vibrancy of her residence nation. She used brightly coloured stones to discover themes typically rooted in nature and the grace of on a regular basis object. Here, the fragile picket whorls of pencils shavings are picked out in gold and sapphires: “the challenge was to create a piece that really looked fragile and resembled wood,” she says, an concept that “suddenly came to me, as obvious and straightforward.” Several of her items at PAD Paris, are on present in Europe for the primary time.
Walid Akkad has made elegant, architectural jewellery his calling card, designed to intensify the types of the physique somewhat than take over. This former Place Vendôme jewelr makes use of stones judiciously, to accent his signature clear curves, making consolation a precedence by working with the physique to create oval bangles, chains that drape over the collarbone and rings that slip simply onto fingers.
PAD Paris runs till April 10, on the Jardins des Tuileries in Paris.